Any Ho Chi Minh City vacation always has the feedback that there's not another place like it here. During your Ho Chi Minh City tours, you can see a chaotic mess of traffic-clogged roads and urban bustle, with nary a green space in sight. But nobody could say they hate it here, Ho Chi Minh City deserves a deep read for your ideal Vietnam tours.

Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon) has long been a hotbed of activity, but it only recently become the over crowded powerhouse that it is today. The French made it the capital of colonial indochine, endowing it with wide boulevards and grand architecture. During the American War, the city served as headquarters for US forces and international journalists, many of who were captivated by its exotic nature. Today Ho Chi Minh City is country's largest and most populous city, and it continues to remain on the cusp of all things new and in vogue.

Although the city has been renamed after the national communist hero, it has since come down hard with capitalist fever. Merchants crowd every inch of sidewalk space, business people broker international deals over their cell phones, and sparkling shopping centers cater for a growing number of upwardly mobile Vietnamese. People work around the clock, without breaking at the weekends. Yet despite all the commercial mania, Ho Chi Minh City is also home to magnificent pagodas, lush gardens, and charming cafes. For visitors, these may be a welcome respite from the city's frenetic pulse, which races at the same speed as the thousands of motorbikes zipping down its streets. Given the way his namesake has turned out, Ho Chi Minh is probably rolling over in his tomb. But the locals here aren't fazed - after all, everyone still calls it Saigon anyway.

Ho Chi Minh City, a forward-looking paradise for those life racers, is driving the country's economic boom as well as your fantasy for an ideal Ho Chi Minh City vacation. IOT, your own Ho Chi Minh tour operator, is informing you that it's never quiet here. But once here, you would understand why people of the city couldn't imagine living anywhere else.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

1. Getting there & away

Land

Bus

Intercity buses depart from and arrive at a variety of bus stations around HCMC and are well served by local bus services from Ben Thanh Market. HCMC is one place where the open-tour buses really come into their own, as they depart and arrive in the very convenient Pham Ngu Lao area. This saves an extra local bus journey or taxi fare. Most of the open-tour companies sell tickets to Mui Ne (around US$5), Nha Trang (around US$9) and Dalat (around US$8), plus there are night buses to Nha Trang (around US$12). Phuong Trang (Puta Travel; 3837 9879; www.putatravel.com.vn) is a major new player serving the above routes plus Can Tho (80,000d) in the Mekong Delta.

Mien Tay bus station (Ben Xe Mien Tay; 3825 5955) serves all areas south of HCMC, which basically means the Mekong Delta. This huge station is about 10km west of HCMC in An Lac, a part of Binh Chanh district (Huyen Binh Chanh). Buses and minibuses from Mien Tay serve most towns in the Mekong Delta, using air-conditioned express buses and premium minibuses.

Buses to locations north of HCMC leave from the immensely huge and busy Mien Dong bus station (Ben Xe Mien Dong; 3829 4056), in Binh Thanh district, about 5km from central HCMC on Hwy 13 (Quoc Lo 13; the continuation of Ð Xo Viet Nghe Tinh). The station is just under 2km north of the intersection of Ð Xo Viet Nghe Tinh and Ð Dien Bien Phu. Note that express buses depart from the east side, and local buses connect with the west side of the complex.

Buses to Tay Ninh, Cu Chi and points northwest of HCMC depart from the newer An Suong bus station (Ben Xe An Suong;), in District 12, way to the west of the centre. To get here, head all the way out on Ð Cach Mang Thang Tam and Ð Truong Chinh. The station is close to the flyover for Quoc Lo 1 (Hwy 1). Note that it’s not really worth using local buses to visit Tay Ninh and Cu Chi, as many of the smaller tunnel sites are off the main highways, making it a nightmare to navigate.

Car & motorbike

Inquire at almost any tourist cafe, travel agent or hotel to arrange car rental. Just remember that your rental will include a driver, as it’s illegal for foreigners to drive in Vietnam without a Vietnamese license. The agencies in the Pham Ngu Lao area generally offer the lowest prices. Also check with travel agencies, or check out newcomer Budget Car Rental (3930 1118; www.budget.com.vn) which offers new cars with English-speaking drivers at reasonable rates.

Motorbikes are available in the Pham Ngu Lao area for around US$10 per day if you will be taking the bike out of town, although this is one city where it helps to have experience. Check the quality of the helmet provided as it may be worth investing in a better one for a long trip.

Train

Trains from Saigon train station (Ga Sai Gon; 3823 0105; 1 Ð Nguyen Thong, District 3; ticket office 7.15-11am & 1-3pm) serve coastal cities to the north of HCMC.

Purchase tickets from Saigon Railways Tourist Services (3836 7640; fax 3837 5224; 275C Ð Pham Ngu Lao; 7.30-11.30am & 1-4.30pm) to avoid any commission, or from most travel agents for a small fee.

Boat

Hydrofoils (adult/child 160,000/80,000d, 1¼ hours) depart for Vung Tau almost hourly from Bach Dang jetty on Ð Ton Duc Thang. For more information contact Greenlines (3821 5609) or Petro Express (3821 0650), which are both located at the jetty. In Vung Tau you will board the hydrofoil at Cau Da pier, opposite the Hai Au Hotel.

Air

Tan Son Nhat Airport was one of the three busiest in the world in the late 1960s. Even today, the runways are still lined with lichen-covered, mortar-proof aircraft-retaining walls, hangars and other military structures.
The majority of domestic flights in the country are operated by Vietnam Airlines. Newer budget airline Jetstar Pacific is providing some much needed competition on several routes, while Vasco flies between HCMC and the Con Dao Islands. 

2. Getting around

Boat

It’s easy to hire a motorised 5m-long boat to tour the Saigon River. There’s always someone hanging around the Bach Dang jetty area looking to charter a boat. Ask them to bring it to you, rather than you going to the boat.

The price should be around US$8 per hour for a small boat or US$15 to US$30 for a larger, faster craft. Since you hire boats by the hour, some will go slowly because they know the meter is running. You might want to set a time limit at the start. Interesting destinations for short trips include Cholon (along Ben Nghe Channel) and the botanical gardens (along Thi Nghe Channel). Note that both channels are fascinating, but filthy and a little whiffy, as raw sewage is discharged into the water. Tourists regard the channels as an attraction, but the government considers them an eyesore and has attempted to move residents out. The channels will eventually be filled in and the water diverted into underground sewerage pipes. Of course, although cruising the Saigon River can be interesting, it pales in comparison with the splendour of the canals in the Mekong Delta.

Ferries across the Saigon River leave from the Bach Dang jetty dock at the foot of Ð Ham Nghi and run every half-hour or so between 4.30am and 10.30pm

Car & motorbike

Travel agencies, hotels and cafes are all in the car-rental business. Most vehicles are relatively recent Japanese- or Korean-made machines – everything from saloons to minibuses. Not long ago, classic American cars (complete with tail-fins and impressive chrome fenders) were popular as ‘wedding taxis’, but these have all been hoovered up by collectors and are rarely seen.

If you’re brave you can rent a motorbike and really earn your ‘I Survived Saigon’ Tshirt. Many say this is the fastest and easiest way to get around the city – or to the hospital, if you don’t know what you’re doing. Even if you’re an experienced biker, make sure you’ve spent some time observing traffic patterns before venturing forth.

Motorbike rentals are ubiquitous in places where tourists tend to congregate – the Pham Ngu Lao area is as good as any. Ask at the cafes. A 100cc motorbike can be rented for US$7 to US$10 per day, including some sort of helmet, and your passport may be kept as collateral. Before renting one make sure it’s in good working order.

Saigon Scooter Centre (848 7816; www.saigonscootercentre.com; 25/7 Ð Cuu Long, Tan Binh district; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) is a reliable source for restored classic Vespa and Lambretta scooters, which are also rented out by the day. Daily rates start from US$10 and discounts are offered for long-term rentals. For an extra fee it is possible to arrange a one-way service, with a pick-up of the bikes anywhere in Vietnam.

On a similar theme, Vietnam Vespa Adventure (09-0365 2068; www.vietnamvespaadventure.com), which operates out of Café Zoom offers guided tours around southern Vietnam, including a loop up the back road from Vung Tau to Mui Ne and some beautiful trails through the mountains near Dalat. 

3. Money & costs

Money

Just inside the airport terminal, there’s an exchange counter run by Sasco (848 7142), which gives the official exchange rate. Opening hours are irregular, so carry sufficient US dollar notes in small denominations to get into the city in case Sasco’s is closed.

Banks with 24-hour ATMs dispense dong only, to a maximum amount of 2, 000, 000d per day. Visa or MasterCard cash advances for larger amounts of dong, as well as US dollars, can be handled at bank counters during banking hours. All of these banks also exchange traveller’s cheques, charging less commission when exchanging for dong. Try the following.

ANZ Bank (829 9319; 11 Me Linh Sq) Has a 24-hour ATM.

HSBC (829 2288; 235 Ð Dong Khoi) With secure 24-hour ATM.

Sacombank (836 4231; www.sacombank.com; 211 Ð Nguyen Thai Hoc) Conveniently located in the budget-traveller zone, with 24-hour ATM.

Vietcombank (829 7245; 29 Ð Ben Chuong; closed Sun & last day of the month) The eastern building is for foreign exchange only, but is also worth a visit just to see the stunningly ornate interior. There are also branches in Dong Khoi area (19 Lam Son Sq).

4.Health & safety

Dangers & annoyances

HCMC is the most theft-ridden city in  Vietnam, don’t become a statistic. Be especially careful along the Saigon riverfront, where motorbike ‘cowboys’ operate.

Scams

One of the more common rip-offs in HCMC involves cyclo drivers demanding exorbitant sums at the end of a tour.

Rather than hopping blithely into the seat when the driver smilingly says, ‘Price up to you, ’ clearly negotiate a fair price up front (consider 100, 000/200, 000d for a half-day/full-day tour). If more than one person is travelling make sure you’re negotiating the price for both and not a per-passenger fee. It sometimes pays to sketch out numbers and pictures with pen and paper so all parties agree. Unfortunately, ‘misunderstandings’ do happen; unless the cyclo driver has pedalled you to the 21 districts of HCMC, US$25 is not the going rate.

That said, don’t just assume the driver is trying to bamboozle you. It’s a tough living, especially as the city government tries to phase out the cyclos entirely. If you’ve had a particularly great guide and ride, tip generously.

While you're there

Medical services

Cho Ray Hospital (855 4137; fax 855 7267; 201 ÐL Nguyen Chi Thanh, District 5; consultations from US$4; 24hr) One of the largest medical facilities in Vietnam, with 1000 beds and a section for foreigners on the 10th floor; about a third of the 200 doctors speak English.

Emergency Centre (829 2071; 125 ÐL Le Loi; 24hr) Has doctors that speak English and French.

FV Hospital (Franco-Vietnamese Hospital; 411 3333; www.fvhospital.com; 6 Ð Nguyen Luong Bang, Tan Phu Ward, District 7; 24hr) French-, Vietnamese- and English-speaking physicians; superb care and equipment.

Grand Dentistry (821 9446; 24hr emergency 0903-647 156; Sun Wah Tower, 115 Ð Nguyen Hue) Dental care, emergencies and surgeries.

HCMC Family Medical Practice (822 7848, 24hr emergency 0913-234 911; www.vietnammedicalpractice.com; Diamond Plaza, 34 ÐL Le Duan; consultations from US$50; 24hr) Run by the well-respected Dr Rafi Kot.

International Medical Centre (827 2366; 24hr emergency 865 4025; fac@hcm.vnn.vn; 1 Ð Han Thuyen; consultations US$40-80; 24hr) A nonprofit organisation billing itself as the least expensive Western health-care centre in the country; has English-speaking French doctors.

International SOS (829 8424, 24hr emergency 829 8520; www.internationalsos.com; 65 Ð Nguyen Du; consultations US$55-70; 24hr) Has an international team of doctors speaking English, French, Japanese and Vietnamese.

Maple Dental Clinic (820 1999; 72 Ð Vo Thi Sau; 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat) Dental care (including emergencies) by experienced English-speaking dentists.