Nha Trang is party central. Once Vietnam's peaceful emerald oasis, the city has recently exploded into a full-fledged resort spot, feeding rapaciously on tourist dollars. Unchecked growth threatens to chock the city with over- development - on bad days, smog completely blocks the nearby islands from view - but good times still abound. Budget hotel and luxury resorts are pecks with visitors enjoying cheap, high-quality snorkeling and scuba diving, daily jaunts to offshore islands, and nightly parties care of the city's lively club scene. Fresh, home-caught seafood dominates the menus and makes Nha Trang an epicurean adventure as well. Vietnam's best municipal beach and a laid-back, tourist-friendly population round out the closet thing the country has to a Pacific-flavored island resort atmosphere; the sparkling turquoise water is the stuff of dreams. The best time to enjoy the "City of the Blue Sea" is from March to September - rain and high winds prevail the rest of the year.

NHA TRANG PRACTICAL INFORMATION


1. Getting there & away

a.Land

Bus

Lien Tinh bus station (Ben Xe Lien Tinh; 822 192; Ð 23 Thang 10) is Nha Trang’s main intercity bus terminal, 500m west of the train station. Seven daily buses head north to Quy Nhon (65, 000d, 5½ hours), with at least two continuing to Danang (120, 000d). Regular buses head south to Phan Rang (24, 000d, 2½ hours), with a dozen continuing on to HCMC (110, 000d, 11 hours) and a similar amount heading into the highlands to Dalat (60, 000d, seven hours).

Nha Trang is a major stopping point on all of the tourist open-bus tours. These are the best option for accessing Mui Ne, which is not served by local buses. Sinh Café runs a comfortable coach at 7.30am, reaching Ca Na before 11am and Mui Ne just after midday. It stops here for lunch before continuing on to HCMC (arriving 5.30pm). It also runs services to Dalat (six hours) and Hoi An (11 hours).

Car & motorbike

Road distances from Nha Trang are: 235km to Quy Nhon, 523km to Danang, 104km to Phan Rang, 250km to Mui Ne, 448km to HCMC, 205km to Dalat and 205km to Buon Ma Thuot.

Train

The Nha Trang train station (822 113; Ð Thai Nguyen; ticket office 7-11.30am, 1.30-5pm & 6-10pm) is down the hill west of the cathedral. Destinations include DanangTuy Hoa (44, 000d, 2½ hours, five daily), Thap Cham (35, 000d, 1½ to 2½ hours, eight daily) and HCMC (160, 000d, seven to 12½ hours, nine daily). (203, 000d, 8½ to 12½ hours, seven daily),

b.Air

Vietnam Airlines (526 768; 91 Ð Nguyen Thien Thuat) connects Nha Trang with HCMC three times a day, and Hanoi and Danang daily. 

2.Getting around

Bicycle

It’s easy to get around all of the sights, including Thap Ba, by bicycle. Most major hotels have rentals for around 20, 000d per day. Watch out for the one-way system around the train station, and the chaotic roundabouts.

3. Money & costs

Money

Vietcombank (822 720; 17 Ð Quang Trung; Mon-Fri) changes travellers cheques and gives cash advances. There’s another Vietcombank branch (524 500; 5 Ð Hung Vuong) which has an ATM, and also exchanges cash and travellers cheques. There is a handy Vietcombank ATM (4 Ð Le Loi) outside the main post office and another Vietcombank ATM (60 Ð Tran Phu) outside the Que Huong Hotel