1. Getting there & away

Kompong Cham is 120km northeast of the capital and the road is in good shape. Phnom Penh Sorya Transport (Sorya; p110) and GST offer air-con buses between Kompong Cham and the capital (10, 000r, two hours, hourly). Overcrowded minibuses also do the run (8000r), as do super-fast share taxis (12, 000r).

NH7 to Kratie and Stung Treng is in great shape. Sorya has bus services from Phnom Penh to Memot and Kratie that pick up punters in Kompong Cham if space allows, as does Hua Lian. The buses to Kratie (17, 000r, three hours) pass through around 10am.

There are no longer any passenger boat services running on the Mekong, but it may be possible to arrange passage on a cargo boat. However, given the speed at which they travel and the number of stops they make, this isn’t the smoothest way to get about.

Motorbikers travelling north to Kratie should consider following the Mekong route for a slice of rural river life.

2. Getting around

Most moto journeys around town are only 1000r or so; a little more at night. Bicycle or motorcycle rental can be arranged through negotiations with staff at your guesthouse or hotel.