The idea of the Hanoi tours often evokes images of thronging streets and poorly thatched huts under the stern, austere bastion of Vietnamese Communist, ravaged by war and closed to the outside world. Visitors of Vietnam tours make a stop in the capital, and somehow, they will be surprisingly amazed to find themselves lost in one of Southeast Asia's most charming cities.

With its Chinese architecture, majestic French colonial buildings, and tree-lined lanes, this ancient city of lakes extends its fascination tracing back times. Hanoi is like a lady walking towards you from the past, with a reserved but truly genuine smile. During the Hanoi tours, you will find that the city's beauty is also quite modern, despite of the fewer skyscrapers towering overhead and less traffic clogging the streets. Hanoi is less cosmopolitan than Ho Chi Minh City, much kinder and gentler than any other cities you encounter in the Vietnam tours.

As the Vietnam tours enjoy more and more popularity all over the world, tourism has also been on the rise in Hanoi in recent years. The Old Quarter has stepped up as the city's tourist enclave, with tourist hotels, travel cafes, and Western restaurants popping up left and right. The rest of Hanoi hasn't chipped in so far. But the construction of hotels by the romantic West Lake and the rise of handicraft souvenir shops on the outskirts of Hanoi are both on the up-going path. This sure forecasts that the compelling Hanoi tours are bring in more and more tourism dollars. For now, plenty of hidden gems remain, revealing a different Hanoi to the inquisitive.

In your Hanoi tours, you can see this city is a gateway in or out of Vietnam or a haven of luxury and infrastructure on your Vietnam vacation through less-accommodating northern Vietnam. Either way, it would be pity to pass through this beautiful ancient city without establishing at least a brief acquaintance with its unique ambience, turbulent history, savory cuisine, and cozy cafes. Hanoi may be the wallflower of Southeast Asia, but if you make a little effort, she can truly shine.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

1. Getting there & away

Land

Bus & minibus

Gia Lam bus station (827 1569; Ð Ngoc Lam) is the place for buses to points northeast of Hanoi. These include Halong Bay (40, 000d, 3½ hours), Haiphong (35, 000d, two hours), and Lang Son (50, 000d, three hours) and Lao Cai (53, 000d, nine hours), both near the Chinese border. The bus station is 2km northeast of the centre – cross the Song Hong (Red River) to get there. Cyclos can’t cross the bridge, so take a taxi (around 30, 000d) or motorbike. More convenient is the Loung Yen bus station in the southeast of town, serving the same places, plus Cao Bang (80, 000d, eight hours) and Ha Giang (76, 000d, seven hours).

Giap Bat bus station (864 1467; Ð Giai Phong) serves points south of Hanoi, including Ninh Binh (28, 000d, two hours) and Hué (80, 000d, 12 hours). It is 7km south of the Hanoi train station.

My Dinh bus station (768 5549, Ð Pham Hung) is another option in the west of town, which serves a range of destinations, including Halong City, Lang Son, Cao Bang, Ha Giang and Dien Bien Phu.

Car & motorcycle

To hire a car with a driver, contact a hotel, travellers café or travel agency. The main roads in the northeast are generally OK, but in parts of the northwest they can be dire in the wet season and only suitable for a 4WD.

The average cost for a six-day trip in a Russian jeep is about US$300 per person, including the jeep, a driver and petrol. These old jeeps fit only two passengers and are pretty uncomfortable: they’re dusty and hot, or damp and cold, depending on the weather. For a smarter Japanese air-con 4WD, double the rate. The price usually includes the driver’s expenses, and it’s a good idea to clarify this.

If you plan to tour the north by bike, there are several good outfits that can arrange guides and rentals and help with itinerary planning.

Train

Air

2. Getting around

Car & motorbike

For travellers well versed in the ways of Asian cities, Hanoi is a lot of fun to explore by motorbike. Most guesthouses and hotels can arrange new motorbikes for around US$5 a day. However, for the uninitiated, it is not the easiest place to learn. Traffic conditions are definitely not as orderly as home, and driving at night can be dangerous, particularly crossing the busy junctions with no traffic lights. Then there are the hassles of dealing with parking and possible theft. It’s also easy to unknowingly violate road rules, in which case the police will help you part with some cash.

Bus & tram

Bus

There are now more than 60 public bus lines serving routes in and around Hanoi. The buses are clean and comfortable, and the fare is just 3500d: only walking would be cheaper. Pick up a copy of the Xe Buyt Hanoi (Hanoi bus map; 5000d) from recommended bookstores on Pho Trang Tien. It is all in Vietnamese but easy enough to follow with routes and numbers clearly marked.

Local transport

Taxi

There are several companies in Hanoi offering metered taxi services. All charge similar rates. Flag fall is around 10, 000d to 15, 000d, which takes you one or two kilometres; every kilometre thereafter costs about 8000d. Bear in mind that there are lots of dodgy operators with high-speed meters. Try and use the more reliable companies:

Airport Taxi (873 3333)

Hanoi Taxi (853 5353)

Mai Linh Taxi (822 2666)

Taxi CP (824 1999)

Bicycle

A good way to get around Hanoi is by bicycle, although the traffic can be daunting at first. Many guesthouses and cafés offer these for rent for about US$1 to US$2 per day.

3.Money & costs

Money

ANZ Bank (825 8190; 14 Pho Le Thai To; 8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri) On the western edge of Hoan Kiem Lake, this international bank has cash advances in dong and dollar with a 24-hour ATM.

Industrial & Commercial Bank (825 4276; 37 Pho Hang Bo) In a convenient location in the Old Quarter, it cashes travellers cheques at the standard 0.5% commission for dong, 1.25% for US dollars and 3% for credit-card cash advances.

Vietcombank Pho Hang Bai (826 8031; 2 Pho Hang Bai); Pho Tran Quang Khai (826 8045; 198 Pho Tran Quang Khai) The towering HQ is located a few blocks east of Hoan Kiem Lake and it has an ATM and offers most currency services. Several smaller branches are scattered around town, including a handy one on Pho Hang Bai, near Hoan Kiem Lake.

4. Health & safety

Dangers & annoyances

Back in the bad old days, Hanoi used to be the hardest place to travel in Vietnam, then in the late 1990s things improved massively. More recently it has become the capital of hotel and tour scams in Vietnam, so be sure to keep your antennae up. We have heard several substantiated reports of verbal aggression and physical violence towards tourists when deciding against a hotel room or tour. Stay calm and back away slowly or things could quickly flare up. Some Western women have been hassled by young men around town who follow them home, so it pays to hit the town in larger numbers. Walking alone in well-lit areas of the Old Quarter is usually safe, but stay alert in the darker streets, particularly in the early hours of the morning. When getting from one part of town to the other at night, particularly from late-night spots, it is more sensible for solo women, and even men, to take a metered taxi or xe om.

Scams

The biggest scams in town are inextricably linked. The taxi and minibus mafia at the airport shuttle unwitting tourists to the wrong hotel. Invariably, the hotel has appropriated the name of another popular property and will then attempt to appropriate as much of your money as possible.

Gay men should be aware of a scam going on around the Hoan Kiem Lake. It starts with a friendly stranger approaching a foreigner and suggesting a night out. This leads to a kar­aoke bar and a private room for a few drinks and some songs. The bill arrives and it’s mira­culously US$100 or more. The situation deteriorates from here and ends in extortion. Be careful and follow your instincts. Subtle variations on this theme involving Western men and local women have been going on for years, and few ‘victims’ think of it as a scam.